Larch are vigorous trees and respond well to heavy feeding. Feeding too late in the season will induce small weak shoots that will often wither over winter.

Larch produce either non-extending spurs or extending shoots. If you prune to leave only spurs before buds break, extension growth, therefor ramification, will be slow. Always leave some new buds.

If you delay major pruning until the first flush of growth has hardened, you can prune harder and expect more of the non-extending spurs to convert to extension shoots.

Exact timing depends where you live and when the season begins. New shoots are only trimmed if they are not needed to build ramification (in which case let them grow stronger). Where short extension is desired, look at the underside of the shoot where the pre-formed buds are easier to see - tiny swellings at the base of some needles. Pinch back to an appropriate bud. To keep already formed pads neat, cut the shoots back to just a few needles. New buds (usually three) will form at the base of the shoot.

Larch foliage is delicate and suffers badly when wiring is attempted while the tree is in leaf. NEVER leave wire on larch during winter, there is a serious risk of branch loss!

Larch roots look dead and rotten, but they are alive, so don't panic! IMPORTANT: Repot European and Japanese larches when the buds begin to swell and become glossy gold, NOT green. Repot American larch just AFTER the buds show green.